Shark Chops and an Eating Competition in Mostar

Previously: The Super Funky Awesome Tour

Our future champion, contemplating the final plate of cevapcici he had to eat

Our wonderful Super Funky Awesome Tour guide Bata told us about a place that makes these little veal balls called cevapi and serves them with pita and kaymek, all really cheap and deliciously greasy. We noticed posters on the wall announcing records. 30, 31, 32...

37, 38, 39.
39? Pshhhh. I could've beat that shit it I were hungry. There were so many places to try on this trip, though, that I didn't want to use up room on an overeating competition. Our friend Robert, however, has one of those unreal metabolisms. We knew he could beat the record without blinking, even when not hungry after the 
McDonalds and donuts and beers and peanuts we'd all had. 

4.5 KM or $2.95 USD for 15 little veal balls

 Apparently in the summer, Cevabdzinica puts six large benches our front, so you can go beat Robert's record in the sun.

 The kaymek was even more like butter than the cream cheesier than at the hostel

 The kaymek melted into the pita holes, the pita so soft and fluffy and campfire-tasting. 
I wanted to enter a pita- and kaymek-eating competition.

All the food was really good. The meat was so good I was jealous of Robert, at least until he got past 30 of 'em. They always serve onions with the cevapi too, which are tasty and really helped Robert finish the last few. The cevapi and pita and kaymek was the only thing I'd had so far that I've never had or seen in America. Though I have found there are a few places in America where you can find it.

Last... one...

23.5KM or $15.39 USD for our total bill for 2 beers,  dinner for 3, and a record-breaking amount of cevapi for another

Booyah! Robert wins! He could eat a bunch of ground up baby cows in order to win a prizeless competition even when he wasn't hungry! We all felt the glow of pride in his accomplishment.

Our awesome hostel people also recommended a restaurant called Hindan Han in Old Town, and when we got there we realized it was also one of the recommendations in our guide books. It being the off season, we got to be the only patrons there, and the seven of us dined from 10PM-12:30 at night, the way dinner should be.


If you know me well, you know I'm actually more interested in menus than in food. One of the people I was with ordered the Dentex, and it was really good, in no way resembling a set of teeth.

Fried brains!

Tufahija! I had seen the word on a pastry case in town earlier that day, but the case-filler hadn't bothered lining the pastries up with the corresponding word, so that had left me wondering. Everything else on the menu at Hindin Han either had a translation (even "banana split" which didn't really need to be translated to "banana split") or was baklava, which has become world-known. Tufahija though? I didn't have room for dessert that night, but it was a mystery I would eventually solve.
We were excited to see drafts (toceno) of Sarajevsko beer, but they were out. 80% of the restaurants I went to in The Balkans were out of most or all of their listed drafts.

But the cans of Sarajevsko were still good, much better than most Balkan beer.
Mostarsko, on the other hand, was coppery and not good at all.

The bread was decent.

"Sharkchops in Sauce: Sharkchops with fresh vegetables and boiled potatoes" for 12KM or $7.86 USD - The shark was great, the mushroom tomato etc. sauce tasty, a great dish to share, but not the most interesting or delicious.

Trout - 12KM - Getting fish around these parts is so great. You always get a whole, fresh fish, simply cooked in oil and a few herbs. And then chard and potatoes with some random cabbage and one slice each of tomato and cucumber. It's the quaintest shit.
Someone ordered this boring "Spicy Beef" fish, which was not spicy. This picture is obviously from after he ate most of the fries and a few bites of the beef. I think there may have even been two disks of beef served to him. There was way too much of thing meat disk business going on in The Balkans. Order fish or veal, not generic beef dishes.
Octopus Salad - Now this shit was good, the little octopus chunks (not to mention the olives, cornichons, and tomatoes) were drenched in enriching olive oil. It was the second best octopus I've ever had (the best was in Mexico City).
Next up: Kovacebik, on the way to Sarajevo

Popular posts from this blog

Alamo Drafthouse